Day One
A new week had begun and we were today off on our mini-break to Rottnest Island! A chance to relax and to enjoy some of WA’s finest snorkelling in the clear, warm waters of the Indian Ocean…
The day began early and, as he had to venture into work, John kindly gave us a lift to the jetty in readiness for our departure. Due to the early arrival we walked next door to the coffee house to have a drink and to pass some time. As departure time got closer, more and more people were arriving at the jetty and readying themselves for the trip over to Rottnest Island. Despite having booked the ferry with Rottnest Express, the first stage of our journey (along the Swan River to Fremantle) was with Captain Cook Cruises so we boarded the boat and were soon on our way.

The trip along the Swan River was a slow one. Very slow. It was quite obvious that it would be a while before we’d get over to Rottnest Island – some 20+ km’s away. This was a little annoying as we wanted to spend as much time as possible on the island itself; and only having two days to explore the island didn’t really give us much time. Admittedly, we’d have liked to spend more time on the island but the cost (being in peak summer season) was ridiculously high – the ferry alone had cost us $160 and the nightly room rate (for a standard room) was $275 per night… a real rip-off in my opinion. Anyways, I digress…
The cruise down the Swan River was accompanied by a narrative, personally delivered by the captain of the vessel upon which we were boarded. He was presenting information about the river and the local surroundings, the history, the various yacht clubs, the expensive mansions and suchlike. As wonderful as this may sound, the reality was something completely different. It was painful to listen to! The captain had a monotone voice and a voice that had no trace of passion or interest anywhere. It was as if he didn’t really want to be there and that he was simply going through the motions. All I can say is that he must have been a fantastic captain because he certainly wasn’t hired for his public speaking…

To our dismay, it took well over an hour to make the short journey to Fremantle. We had no idea that it would take so long and we still had to board the high-speed Rottnest Express ferry that would take us the remaining 18km to the Island. Leaving the Captain Cook Cruise vessel, we were soon aboard the Rottnest Ferry and leaving the Port of Fremantle. As the ferry left the river mouth and entered the Indian Ocean, the captian powered up the engines and the ocean waves began to grow in size. Now this was more like it! A high-speed boat skipping across some pretty choppy waters on the way to the island – much more fun and entertaining.
About half an hour later, we arrived at Thomson Bay jetty on Rottnest Island – finally! Sadly we had already lost the morning and lunchtime was almost upon us. (It was good that we had an overnight stay otherwise we’d have to be returning to the ferry within 4 hours for the return journey back to the mainland… the ferry departing from the jetty at 4pm in the afternoons. See what I mean about a rip-off?) As soon as we alighted, we made our way directly to our accomodation – The Lodge Resort. It was only a short distance and, after a short wait at reception, we were checked-in, had located our room, unpacked and ready to go exploring.

The first port of call was the Tourist Information Office. Lyn and I were wanting to know the best location on the island to view the sunset from; such that we could attempt to grab some sunset photographs for the holiday album. We were informed that the best place was Vlamingh Lookout (only a few minutes walk away) as it was too far to venture to the far west of the island otherwise. With it being close by, we took the short walk to the Lookout so that we’d know exactly where it was for later in the evening. Sure enough, it wasn’t too far away so we returned to the main bus stop to go in search of some good bays for snorkelling.

Last time Lyn had visited the Island, the bus had been free and passengers would simply jump on and off as they wished (there are no cars on the island, other than the bus, a small train and a few delivery/maintenance vehicles; people travelled using pushbikes or on foot). It was obvious that the free bus was no more. Staggeringly, the bus fare was $24!!! Yes, twenty-four dollars! This fare allowed the passengers (Lyn and I) to visit any of the bays around the island at will… or at least when the bus was doing it’s rounds. Now remember that this island is only 11km by 4.5km in size and the bus only operates from about 8am in the morning until 5pm; and the time was now approaching 1pm in the afternoon… Due to our time running out on day one, we skipped lunch (deciding to grab a decent meal later in the evening) and paid the $24 dollars to board the bus. The first place we’d try would be Parker Point.

We jumped off the bus and made our way down the wooden steps to the beach of Parker Point. Before us was the clear and inviting waters of the ocean, with the coral and fish clearly visible before even setting foot into the water. With bags and towels safely stowed near a handily placed outcrop of rocks, we ventured into the waters. The beach itself was pretty much empty and the water even more so. Even as we entered the water, the beach cleared and we were soon alone and free to explore as we wished. The water was quite choppy and, being a less competent and less confident swimmer than Lyn, I stayed in the calmer waters whilst watching her snorkel among the coral and fish a little further out. In addition to her normal snorkelling equipment, Lyn had a specialist snorkelling mask that was equipped with an underwater camera for taking photographs and videos. This mask was a generous gift from Ann and Malc – thank you! Having not used it before, it took some getting used to and we weren’t sure what results we’d get from it. The best thing to do was to click away and we’d review the photos (and videos) when we returned back from Rottnest Island. Parker Point was quiet and it was picturesque, but there wasn’t all that much in the way of fish and marine life to be seen whilst snorkelling. Lyn returned to shore a little disappointed so we quickly collected our belongings, grabbed a few more photos and decided to take a short walk to the next bay, Little Salmon Bay.

We arrived at Little Salmon bay and, despite being much smaller in size, there were quite a few more people present. Again, the ocean was choppy as we made our way into the clear waters. Quite a few people were snorkelling along the edge of the reef and Lyn had soon joined them with the photo mask. Unfortunately, the choppy waters meant that she was struggling to control the camera whilst swimming to avoid being swept towards the rocks, hence we weren’t sure how the photos would turn out. Despite seeing a little more marine life this time, she was still surprised that there wasn’t more to see. It wouldn’t be long before the next bus was due to pass by so we dried off, packed up our belongings and jumped back onto the bus. The next place at which we wanted to stop was over the far side of the island – Little Armstrong Bay.

Jumping off the bus, we had a short walk to Little Armstrong Bay. Three guys also decided to get off at the same place so we literally followed them down to the beach. It was a little awkward walking over the rocks to get to the bay itself, which was small with a secluded beach, but the effort would be worth it. At one end of the beach (only some 150 yards away) the guys had set down their towels and we set up camp at the other end. Within minutes we were in the water, which seemed noticeably colder at this side of the island! Straight away it was obvious that the marine life here was much more plentiful. Only a short distance out the coral reef began, the waters not quite so choppy now. Large fish swam gracefully alongside smaller fish, flashes of colour dotting around here and there. Under the craggy outcrops, shoals of small fish could be seen hiding together and a small reef shark was busy scouring the ocean floor. It was fantastic.
It was also a bit intimidating at times, two moments of which particularly stick in my mind. The first was when I swam back into the shallows to adjust my mask and snorkel. As I was about to set my feet down I quickly looked to check the floor below me and noticed I was above a rocky outcrop. As I looked for a place to rest my feet, two black octopus passed by and disappeared straight under the rocks! They weren’t big by any stretch of the imagination (perhaps the size of a dinner plate) but they gave me a start nonetheless. I quickly beckoned Lyn over with the camera but, sadly, they were no longer to be seen and there was no way I was going to attempt to entice them out from under the rocks! The second moment was, again, as I swam from the deeper waters back into the shallows. I had never seen a ray before (apart from in an aquarium) and to see one swimming between me and the shore was quite a spectacle. Again, it wasn’t huge but it was a good few feet in size and I did not expect to see such a graceful creature so close to the shore. It was an amazing personal experience as I’d never experienced anything like it before. Due to the vast array of marine life around us, we spent a longer time at the bay before heading back towards the road to catch the bus. Back at the road we realised that we weren’t far from Parakeet Bay so took a short walk over to take a look.

Parakeet Bay was empty, apart from a couple of fitness enthusiasts that were running up and down the sand dunes. They soon departed and we were left alone with a completely deserted bay before us. The sand was white and the ocean was crystal clear and a beautiful blue colour. We took a few moments to take in the scene, and to grab a few photographs, before returning to the road to catch the bus.
It was at this point that something niggled in my mind and I pulled the bus timetable from the backpack. Ah heck, we had missed the last bus and we were quite some distance from the resort and ‘business end’ of the island. Deciding on what to do, we traced our steps back along the road in the hope that another bus of some sort would come by (or face the fact that we had a walk of several kilometres to get back to the resort!) We got lucky. The final bus of the day must have been running late and the lady driving kindly stopped to pick us up (we were between stops at this point). We returned to our room, only a short walk from where the bus route terminated, and quickly showered and changed into our evening attire. The sun would soon be setting and we had plans to catch the sunset before grabbing our evening meal…
Leaving the resort, a lone quokka stood outside and Lyn bent down to call it. It was very tame and friendly and Lyn tickled it behind the ears. The more she tickled the more the quokka enjoyed it!
Everytime Lyn tried to move away, the quokka gently reached out and pulled her hand back towards it. It was hilarious! It was also very surprising at just how gentle the creature was with Lyn; no attempt to bite her, no grabbing, no scratching. (Remember that these are wild animals, natives of the island, and are not kept as pets).
This was the perfect photo opportunity so…

The quokka was the animal that gave Rottnest Island it’s name. Long ago, a Dutch sailor landed on the island and mistakenly took the creature to be a large species of rat. Hence, he named the island “Rottnest” (Rat Nest).
We walked upto Vlamingh Lookout as the sun began to set and immediately I set to work trying to capture the moment. There wasn’t a single cloud in the sky so, sadly, a dramatic sunset was out of the question. Even so, I played with the settings of the camera trying to capture at least a few good images that would do the sunset justice. This continued until the sun had slipped below the horizon and the bright glare of the disappearing sun was no more. Together, Lyn, Rebel Ted and I made our way back to the mall area for some much needed food and drink!

On the way back, we passed a small cemetery. Rather than pass straight by we took a moment to wander around the graves and read the gravestones (where they had not weathered beyond legibility). Most of those laid to rest there died in the 1800’s. As we wandered around the graves, the quokkas had begun to appear in larger numbers and some of them ran, some skipped and others simply lazed around. Very adorable creatures are those quokkas!

Arriving back at the mall, things looked decidedly… quiet. Restaurants had closed, or were closing, so we made our way towards Subway and a fast food outlet. To our surprise, these were also closed! It was just short of 8pm and the mall had closed down, apart from the general store (which closed at 8pm!) Being unfamiliar with the island, we didn’t know of where else to eat – apart from the resort’s own restaurant. However, the meals weren’t particularly enticing to Lyn and I and the prices were enough to put us off, too.
As a result we quickly darted into the general store, grabbed a basket and picked up a few items that we’d take back to our room. Bread rolls, bananas, roast chicken slices, cheese and bacon bites, spreadable butter, drinks and chocolate. That would do the trick. The only problem was that the room had no catering facilities whatsoever (apart from tea / coffee and a very small fridge-freezer).
The handle of a teaspoon was used to spread butter onto the roles and Lyn was soon enjoying her banana sandwich whilst I tucked into a chicken roll. It wasn’t perfect, but it was food and we were hungry! As we ate we switched on the television and searched for something to watch. There were only five channels available so viewing was quite limited. However, one of the channels available was National Geographic so this provided the perfect viewing whilst we settled down for the night and relaxed.
The relaxation part didn’t quite go to plan though.
Lyn and I were in the middle room in a block of three. Either side of us, as it later became apparent, were two families with kids. The kids were obviously excited at being away on their holidays and their excitement continued quite late into the night. When peace did finally descend, the parents/guardians of said children then took over and the result was only an hour or two of sleep at most.
Day Two
We were awoken from our two-hour slumber by the sounds of splashing and excited shouting outside of our room (which overlooked the pool). The resort kids were up extra early and making the most of the pool! It was pointless trying to catch another hour or so of sleep so we got up and made a plan for the day. We decided to skip breakfast (it was still too early for breakfast at the resort anyway as this did not start until 7:30am) and instead finished off some of the food we had bought the previous night.

After our makeshift breakfast, we packed up our belongings and made our way to reception to check-out. Having decided on what items we’d need for the day, we left the remainder of the items in the storage room at the resort; we’d collect them later prior to our departure. The first place we wanted to visit today was The Basin.
The Basin was on the northwest coast of the island and a short walk from the resort. As we followed the signs to the bay, we noticed that it was already getting quite busy – even though the ferries full of day passengers had not yet arrived. Sure enough, we arrived at The Basin and it was already full of folks enjoying themselves in and around the small bay area. Looking out across the bay, it was fairly obvious why it was so-called – the rock formation creating a basin-like structure in which people were swimming and snorkelling.
Already in our swimming gear, we walked across the basin rock and stepped down onto the sandy floor. The water was a little choppy again but, more so than yesterday, it felt a fair bit colder! It wasn’t too bad once the body had adjusted and once we had started swimming, but it wasn’t as warm as yesterday! Sadly the water was not as clear either and there was a lot of swell and particulates – caused by the tail end of a cyclone that had been raging further north. Visibilty was much reduced but we still were able to snorkel and see a few different types of fish as we swam out into the deeper waters. Despite the cooler water, the sun was extremely hot (even at that relatively early hour in the morning) so we made sure we were covered in waterproof sun lotion and that we didn’t spend too much time swimming under it’s strengthening glare.
As we left The Basin it was getting on close to lunchtime so we walked down towards the southern end of Thomson Bay. Here we found a Dome restaurant so we ducked in quickly to avoid the lunchtime rush. Judging by the lengthening queues we had done this just at the right time, too. After ordering the food I was surprised at how much it had cost… so I queried this with the head waiter. For some reason, the girl taking my order had mistakenly entered into the system that I’d wanted SIX fresh orange juices… ok… The meal was very disappointing (nowhere near as good as the Dome restaurant we’d visited with John and Meg during our earlier weekend away) so we left the eatery somewhat dismayed – but the banana milkshake, to their credit, was pretty good.
Heading back towards the centre of Thomson Bay, we walked around and took a few more photos of the place. We were heading for the jetty to find out the time of the next glass-bottomed boat tour (Lyn had done this during her previous visit and suggested we do it together). The boat was moored at the jetty but there was no information that hinted when the next tour would be taking place. In fact, the boat looked as though it wasn’t currently in use and there was nobody around to ask. A small information board stated that we should contact the Adventure Centre for more information so we headed back to locate the centre, only to eventually find that it was closed. I guess that pretty much ruled out the opportunity to take a glass-bottomed boat trip.

Other trips and tours were available (such as the Wadjemup Aboriginal Bus Tour) but these didn’t really take our interest sufficiently to make it worthwhile. Instead, we decided to spend the remaining few hours taking in some of the nearby sights before relaxing and walking along the bays that were not too far away from our departure point. After wandering around the grounds near to the Information Centre, we ventured into the small Rottnest Island museum. It was very hot in there but nevertheless allowed Lyn and I to pass an hour or so whilst reading up on the history of the island and it’s inhabitants, from yesteryear to modern day. After perusing the exhibits and display cases, we made our way to the far end of the museum as this is where a small souvenir shop was housed. After a quick look around the shop we exited the museum; thanking the guide and making a small donation on the way out.
Once back at Thomson Bay, we headed north along the beach towards one of Rottnest’s lighthouses. Out in the bay area, various small speedboats and larger yachts were coming and going. Nearer to the shore, smaller vessels were moored to large wooden posts that stood proud from the shallow waters. At one point we came across three pelicans that were stood preening atop consecutive mooring posts. Unless you’ve seen these birds firsthand, it’s difficult to appreciate just how large they are! After grabbing a few photos of the birds for the album, we continued our walk towards the lighthouse. As time was pressing on, we didn’t walk all the way to the lighthouse (which appreared to be open to the public) and so took a few photos from a distance before turning back.

The quokkas, despite being primarily nocturnal creatures, were already out in force and again provided great photo opportunities. Sadly, these particular quokkas weren’t as tame as the little guy that Lyn met yesterday but they would still come towards you and check you out; probably looking for food! The wild pink and grey gullahs were also out in force as we made our way back the The Lodge to pick up our luggage items. They were more nervous than the quokkas and I wasn’t able to get too close for a decent photograph as a result. I could have changed the lens on my camera but decided not to on this occasion…

Arriving back at the jetty for departure, and after confusion between ferry companies as to who should take passengers where, we eventually boarded a ferry back to Fremantle. The upbeat captain suggested that we remain seated during the journey as the crossing was likely to be rough; and he was not far wrong. The high-speed ferry rocked and rolled as it skipped across the waves and Lyn and I were both enjoying it. The same could not be said for others on the ferry, especially the young girl sat to my left. She was not having the best of times aboard the ferry and had turned a funny shade of green. To her credit she did hold it together and, half an hour later, we were docked at Fremantle and transferring back onto the James Stirling for the cruise back along the Swan River to Perth. It had been a long couple of days and we were hoping that the captain of the Stirling was not the same monotone drone that had piloted us only a couple of days earlier. Thankfully, he wasn’t at the helm and there was very little in the way of commentary on the return voyage. A wine tasting session was taking place on the lower deck but we were happy to ignore it and simply enjoy the slow journey towards Perth; chatting about our two days on Rottnest and whether or not we’d go back again.
All in all we had enjoyed our time there, even if it had become extremely commercialised and overpriced. Being such a small place, with no easy transit to and from the mainland, there was little that the traveller could do. You either paid your money and made the most of it or you didn’t go. We’re glad we saved the money and went. Even if the flies did drive us to the brink of madness. Would we go again? Yes – we would… but probably only for a single day to enjoy more snorkelling.
Photos coming soon!
December 22nd, 2009 | Category: General, Photography | Leave a comment